Terrific climbing on interestingly featured rock. Fully bolted sport climbs from grade 10 to 22. An easy 15 to 30 min walk (depending on where you park). Full shade from mid-March to early October. Superior quality climbing compared with Andromeda, Candy Mountain, or Mosquito Wall
Yet Wayne’s World gets surprisingly little traffic.
Located on the Southern side of Mt Beerwah, Wayne’s World was developed in the mid-2000s by Wayne Mieth & Co, and offers thoroughly enjoyable sport climbing, predominantly protected by glue-in ring bolts, ranging in height from 14m to 32m for the single pitch climbs, with a few climbs having optional second pitches. The rock itself has some terrific features, making for delightfully fun climbing. Most of the climbs are named using famous lines from the cult 1992 film “Wayne’s World”.
But why such little traffic? It’s most likely that Wayne’s World suffered from a lack of enthusiasm from the climbing community when it was first developed for two main reasons. Firstly, access used to be difficult unless you owned a 4WD or high clearance vehicle. This was followed by a horrendous walk in, up and down very steep gullies, often requiring you to pull up on fixed ropes to avoid slipping back down the gullies. Secondly, the original bolting was done with bash in carrot bolts, requiring climbers to BYO bolt plates/hangers, and some of the anchor hardware was completely unsuitable for climbing, and rusted very quickly.
However, in early 2020 the majority of routes were re-bolted using glue-in ring bolts, and the horrible rusty anchors were replaced with proper stainless steel anchors (thanks to Safer Cliffs QLD and QUT Cliffhangers). At around the same time, a new walking trail was established, which drastically shortened the walk-in time (now only about 15 mins), and eliminated the need to slog up and down the gullies. The only remaining problem was that you still required a 4WD or high clearance vehicle to drive to the closest parking area (via a pothole-ridden dirt logging road).
The good news is if you don’t have a suitable vehicle, you can avoid the nasty, bumpy logging road and just park at the main Beerwah Hiker’s carpark (on the northern side of the mountain). An easy 15 min walk along a fire access trail brings you to the Wayne’s World hiker’s trail turn-off, then another 10-15 mins walk to the crag. So about 25-30 mins easy walk all up, if you choose this option.
Both access options are described in detail on thecrag.com, including maps and coordinates.
Yes Way, grade 16, 23m
It’s definitely worth a visit to this little gem of a crag. Take a 70m rope for the longer climbs, though you can still do a bunch of the shorter climbs if you only have a 60m rope. A dozen quick draws will suffice. A few super easy climbs at the far right side of the crag still have the old carrot bolts, so bring bolt plates if you have them, though to be honest the better climbing is to be had on the ring-bolted routes. There’s even a couple of Trad lines for those so inclined. Climbing is still possible in the hotter months, though you have to chase the shade as various climbs move in and out of direct sun. Check thecrag.com for route information and recently added topos, as well as access/approach info.
Have fun, and climb safe!
