Are you a newbie to the Bluies? We’ve put together our fav areas for those who are new to the area and short on time.
This is an area with very easy access; carpark at the lookout and a set of stairs down to the crag. On your walk in you'll pass Jean Genie cave area which is great for a challenge. Walking past the overhang, the wall will open up to a very vertical section which is Little Triggers Wall. This area is great for climbs in the mid teens to low 20's with a fantastic view (if you can pick a clear day to visit).
Dam Cliffs is a perfect little crag for deep water solo fun. There is mostly dry sport climbing just around the corner. A classic test for new lead climbers is Wet Feet, a traverse across a stream on jugs (you can guess how it got the name). Steep Wall, a short walk from Wet Feet Area, is a crag with grades ranging around mid teens to low 20's.
Head to Disneyland crag for a climb and cave experience at Bushrangers Cave. To explore the cave fully, you'll want to scramble up where the chair has been left. Once you're up there, follow the narrow corridor along until there is a small drop down, where you will be going deeper below the corridor you were just traveling along. It's a pretty tight squeeze at the end following the path on the right (achieved by crawling head first), a short but awesome experience in a pitch black cave! Even just checking out the non-crawling section of the cave is really cool to see, and a wonderful change in temperature.
Hanging Rock is a great end of day wind down with an awesome view. If you bring an esky with some snacks and sips, it makes for a very relaxing way to end a hard day of climbing.
Photography by Aaron Kho
Cosmic Country: The Freezer has a 40 minute walk-in and spectacular views with hard climbing. Old Blobby is a kind 20 with a cruxy boulder start. Would recommend a stick clip for this area
Boronia: Head to Ancient Mariner Buttress for Cowboy Clip. You'll walk past Ferris Cave which is a spectacle of perma draws and hard routes.
Medlow Bath: Radioactive man is a classic 2 star 20 at The Sunbath, with warm up climbs to the left (another great crag with a good mix of grades).
Centennial Glen: for routes grade 20-34+
Bells Supercrag: for routes grade 20+
Zig Zag: mostly trad routes
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