Photograph: Bruce Schneider
Serpent Crag is one of the first sports crags established in South East Queensland. Situated in the heart of the Blackall Range, approximately 2 hours from Brisbane. Host to some of Queensland's most unique rock features, visitors are often left in awe of the 3D climbing features. The range of grades sits between 13 to 27 making this crag an easy go-to for groups with a mix of experienced and new climbers. There are also some "mini" crags surrounding the main wall that will keep the keen climbers busy. The crag is in the sun the majority of the day and is host to a lot of insects that love a taste of their visitors so sun protection and insect repellent are a must all year round.
Serpent Crag is adjacent to Gheerula Campground, North West of Brisbane. If you type in the directions to Gheerula Campground in Google Maps you should end up on Sam Kelly Rd, roughly 2 hours after leaving Brisbane. The access trail is a 4WD track that eventually joins a hiking trail. The approach takes about 30 minutes with options for some optional switchbacks that are shorter but also steep. We advise wearing appropriate footwear and clothing for bushbashing on uneven/loose terrain.
The crag is a part of the Mapleton National Park Region. Visitors from Brisbane and beyond do have the option to book a campsite at the neighbouring Gheerula Campground to spend the night to save them the 2-hour+ drive back after a big day of climbing in the sun. The campsite also has drop toilets and fire pits. For day visitors, it's recommended to park just before the cattle grid as you approach Gheerula Campgrounds by the big red gum tree. Be sure to park as close to the fence as possible to allow room for others. There are no drinking water facilities so be sure to bring plenty of water when visiting.
The entire crag is well protected with both fixed hangers and ring bolts. There are some climbs that also take natural protection, including the popular route "Minotaur" which takes an optional #4 Cam. A single rack and a set of nuts should suffice for the trad and mixed routes at the crag.
Great Warm Ups:⭐⭐⭐Minotaur(17), ⭐Berserker (17)
Classics: ⭐⭐⭐Minotaur (17), ⭐⭐Dante's Inferno (18), ⭐⭐ The Gatekeeper(25)
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