The return of the warmer weather (did it ever leave?!) brings with it the return of the Queensland climber to their summer sanctuary: the cave. Controversially, the best cave for climbers in South East Queensland is at Mount Coolum. 125km north of the Brisbane climber’s spiritual home (Urban Climb West End), Coolum cave attracts gym bros and trad dads alike with its deliciously short walk in, quality steep climbing and impeccable vibes.
With over 100 routes in about as many metres, this is the most bang for your buck outside of KP. Coolum’s walk-in is slightly longer, and the climbs marginally harder, but at least you won’t get heatstroke, or get run over by a gang of teenagers on e-scooters.
Climbing is best in the afternoon when the southerly breeze gives you a chance of sticking to the seemingly frictionless holds. The debate rages on, though: beach then climbing, or climbing then beach?! I personally can’t imagine a better way to cap off a day of horizontal grunting and punting than running into the cold surf then enjoying the sunset with a burrito in hand.
The cave is also a good haven for rainy days. You can still climb many routes behind the curtain of water, and the world outside may as well not exist. Beware, though, that the rock does inconveniently seep in places after rain. Also lower any send expectations on steamy days when mother nature forgets to turn on the fan.
Meg Noel IS the Bat Outta Hell. Photo by Matt Raimondo.
Access
You can park and approach from the main carpark on Jarnahill Drive. A slightly quicker walk-in, with less queueing for a park, can be achieved via Quinn Court. Just follow the path up to the backside of the mountain! You’ll hear the distinctive calls of the cave goblins as you get near (“niceeeee!”, “come ON, you got it!”, “nguuuuhhhhhhh”).
The most recent time I climbed at Coolum cave, I opted for approach birks. Barely tougher than your average pluggers, these well-travelled sandals have no grip whatsoever. The walk-in was fine. It’s a mostly flat, well-worn path with a short steep section as you arrive at the cave. Unfortunately my exhausted legs and old birks let me down on the walk-out. I slipped on some gravel on the steps, and landed spectacularly on my backpack like a stunned turtle. Thus I learned my lesson- be better at walking… also get some technical approach birks (pictured below). These beauties have more tread than my Sprinter tyres, plus they look great with socks, right?!
Facilities & Ethics
-The traditional custodians of Brooyar are the Gubbi Gubbi / Kabi Kabi people.
-No climbing outside the cave.
-As it's in a National Park, dogs are not allowed.
-Some routes are closed when birds are nesting- check the route description on the crag and ask if you're unsure!
-Very excitingly, you no longer need to go into the bush and dig a hole - there is a very shiny new toilet block at the start of the Mt Coolum summit hike entrance, on Jarnahill Drive…! There is also a water fountain here.
Protection
Well protected with ring bolts and fixed hangers. Check thecrag.com for number of clips, anchor location and descent suggestions. Most popular routes are equipped with perma-draws. Check the draws as you clip though! Some gates can be reluctant to close, have grooves with sharp edges, or become corroded from the salty air. Let one of the friendly locals know if something seems unsafe!
Pinnacle’s Top Picks
Warm Ups:
⭐Dave (20)- Not bad for a slab climb. You’ll get warm quicker on:
⭐ Crazy Horny (24)- A good 10 knee bars in 10m! Just don’t pump out after the boulder start! Good to learn to rest in knee bars. Stick clip 2nd to avoid ground fall.
⭐⭐ Hung Like a Fruit Bat (25)- burly goodness. Disappointingly few knee bars.
Crag classics:
⭐⭐⭐ Screaming Insanity / Wholly Calamity (26)-THE line. Got a bit of everything.
⭐⭐⭐Weapon of Choice (27)- you’re here to bar your knees, right? You’ll spend more time on your knees than hands on this cool climb.
⭐⭐⭐Evil Wears No Pants (30)- great name, and going off the 600 ascents logged on the crag, a great climb.
Unique climbs:
⭐⭐⭐Four Metres of Madness (27)- Used to be 29. A 4m climb that recommends stick clipping the first 2 bolts…!? You’ve got to see it to believe it’s that good.
Gear
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50m rope will probably do. It’s basically a gym- even a 30m rope can work!
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Rope tarp is a must. A bag is even better. You WILL still find sand in your rope and grigri after, but it’s nice to feel like you’re fighting this.
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There’s a huge communal stick clip, so you can go lighter on that walk in!
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Knee pads essential. I use Send slim knee pads -my friends are jealous ;-)
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