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Blog — Gear Reviews

Metolius Magnum Review

Metolius Magnum Review</p>
     
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by Steve Thompson Earlier this year, I was in the market for a new boulder mat. I wanted something big and was torn between the Black Diamond Mondo and the Metolius Magnum. In the end, I ended up going with the Magnum due to its superior harness system. While I really enjoy the Mondo as a landing surface, I really don’t enjoy carrying it for more than five minutes. At 8.48kg, the Magnum does weigh slightly less than the Mondo at 9.25kg, but the superior harness system actually makes it feel like there’s an even bigger difference than that. The...

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Petzl Tibloc Review

Petzl Tibloc Review</p>
     
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by Steve Thompson Going to keep this one short and sweet, much like the product itself. The Petzl Tibloc is a super-simple ascender/rope-grab. It takes up almost no room on your harness and weighs only 35 grams. The original version of the Tibloc had issues where it could become slightly disengaged from the rope and if the teeth were moved in this state it could really tear up the rope sheath. The updated version includes an orange-coloured spring that ensures the Tibloc does not disengage. The new-and-improved Tibloc in use, keeping a Bosun’s chair in place Because of it’s small...

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Chalk Brushes Compared

Chalk Brushes Compared</p>
     
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A climbing brush is a staple part of any good climber’s arsenal. Whether you’re developing a brand new climbing area or having a last-minute burn on the gym route that’s getting stripped and reset tomorrow, you need a way to clean the holds. There are a variety of factors that one should consider when looking at climbing brushes: the brush material, the bristle density, the size, and the ergonomics.   Bristle Material Brushes typically come with either nylon or boars’ hair bristles and either a wooden or plastic handle. The handle material is really just a matter of style preference,...

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Osprey Mutant Reviews

Osprey Mutant Reviews</p>
     
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Review by Peta Barret I’m a guide so I’m used to carrying a big pack, but sometimes, when you’re not actually working, you just want to carry a smaller pack. I usually live out of my osprey porter 46L. Its brilliant, it expands to fit a heap of guiding gear and I can compress it right down take it on board a plane… but it’s not a light pack. The Mutant 22L, however, is super light. For its size, it can fit in a lot more than I have in other, supposedly larger, lightweight 36L packs. The wide mouth top...

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The Climbing Chalk Pepsi Challenge

The Climbing Chalk Pepsi Challenge</p>
     
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Since the dawn of time (or possibly since 1954, whichever came first), one question has plagued rock climbers the world over. It is a problem with deep roots, one which cuts to the core of our sport, a perplexing mystery without resolution… Which climbing chalk is best? At long last, we have answers. You’ll sleep soundly tonight after we soothe your troubled mind with the balm of knowledge. What follows is an extremely rigorous and rigidly scientific examination of a variety of chalk products for use in the sport of climbing. These are by no means matters of opinion and...

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